Tag Archives: jackets

Cutting Line Designs “A New Dimension”

16 Jun

It has been awhile since I have sewn a Cutting Line Design pattern.   Awhile back, these patterns had so much ease, I couldn’t even sew the smallest size without doing some major alterations. That, or just look overpowered in my garment.  But now, they seem to be slimming down a bit, or did Louis just add an extra small size to the patterns?  I don’t know.

I love the instructions on these patterns.  They are very detailed and leave nothing to guess about.  Terrific illustrations go along with the well-written instructions.  And Louise Cutting, the designer, always includes sewing tips that enhance the quality of the final product.

There are two versions in “A New Dimension”.  One is a long jacket/blouse with an interesting collar treatment.  The other is a short jacket with tab closure:

A New Demension

One of the best suggestions in the instructions is how to finish the underarm part of the side seam.  These sleeves are cut-on, and I don’t usually like the way cut-on sleeves hang under the arm.  The instructions say to diagonally clip each side of the seam separately.  Then, as you serge, open up the clips slightly, so that you are actually sergeing air between the clips.  This makes the sleeves hang nicely.  Here is my version, done up in a linen jacquard:

Open:

Closed:

It’s worth it to note that the only alteration I made to this pattern was to shorten the sleeve.  I usually do a narrow shoulder adjustment, if nothing else.  But, this jacket has something Louise calls “military princess seams”, the seams running from front to back.  This gives the illusion of a shoulder line, so I think it works for my narrow shoulders.

This was a very fun project and I highly recommend this pattern.  I am definitely going to sew the longer version…oh, and make some pants to go with this version :).

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Chado Ralph Rucci and Marcy Tilton?

24 Oct

My next project is a Marcy Tilton jacket and Chado Ralph Rucci pants. It seems like an unlikely pairing, but in my mind it works because of the proportions.

The Chado Ralph Rucci pants, Vogue1215, are slim, which I have been looking for.  Slim pants are going to be tricky, because I don’t want to look like a lollipop on a stick, a mushroom, or any other top-heavy shape you can come up with.  I want to look like the svelte model in the picture below:

That will only happen in my parallel universe, where all things are skinny and beautiful (hopefully, y’all know I’m teasing – I’m pretty comfortable in this old body).  I love the shape of these pants, though: not too tight, a bit flowy and feminine – just perfect.

I am pairing these pants with the new Marcy Tilton jacket, Vogue 8693:

I love the drape of this jacket – casual, but elegant at the same time.  This is a similar silhouette to Vogue 8582:

This pattern has become a TNT for me.  I’ve made it up in long sleeves, 3/4 sleeves, scoop neck, and turtle neck.  I like that the narrowest point is just above the waist, which is my narrowest point.  Here is a picture of last top I made out of a rayon/lycra knit:

I realize that the top and the jacket are different in many ways, as well.  For one thing, the jacket looks like it has lots of ease.  That, or the jacket on both models is too big.  I will have to be careful of that, perhaps using the smallest size and adjusting from there.  However, because of the “wings”, there is plenty of ease in the waist/hip area, so I may not have to worry about that at all.

The other difference is the fabric.  I usually look best in a thin, drapey fabric.  This jacket will be made out of an unusual cotton double knit I got from Emma One Sock.  It is a double-sided knit; one side is a gray, heathered solid and the other side is a creamy-white and gray print (sort of a small houndstooth, but not really).

Here are the two fabrics for the project.  On the left is a gray, stretch wool for the pants.  The two on the right are both sides of the cotton double knit I will use for the jacket.  The side I call “houndstooth” and the side I call “heathered solid”.

Marcy shows the latest jacket she made from this pattern in “Marcy’s Closet” on her blog.  Here it is:

I intend to play with the fabric, alternating the sides to come up with a similar effect.

This is my last week of freedom before I have surgery on my foot.  I don’t know when or if I will be able to sew for awhile, since the foot needs to be elevated for about two weeks after surgery. But, you can bet I will do everything in my power to make sewing a priority, especially, since I have this project in mind. Right now, I have visions of me sitting at the sewing machine, legs splayed, one foot on the peddle and the other propped on a pillow sitting atop a chair. Nice visual, huh? I hope it works.

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