It has been awhile since I have sewn a Cutting Line Design pattern. Awhile back, these patterns had so much ease, I couldn’t even sew the smallest size without doing some major alterations. That, or just look overpowered in my garment. But now, they seem to be slimming down a bit, or did Louis just add an extra small size to the patterns? I don’t know.
I love the instructions on these patterns. They are very detailed and leave nothing to guess about. Terrific illustrations go along with the well-written instructions. And Louise Cutting, the designer, always includes sewing tips that enhance the quality of the final product.
One of the best suggestions in the instructions is how to finish the underarm part of the side seam. These sleeves are cut-on, and I don’t usually like the way cut-on sleeves hang under the arm. The instructions say to diagonally clip each side of the seam separately. Then, as you serge, open up the clips slightly, so that you are actually sergeing air between the clips. This makes the sleeves hang nicely. Here is my version, done up in a linen jacquard:
It’s worth it to note that the only alteration I made to this pattern was to shorten the sleeve. I usually do a narrow shoulder adjustment, if nothing else. But, this jacket has something Louise calls “military princess seams”, the seams running from front to back. This gives the illusion of a shoulder line, so I think it works for my narrow shoulders.
This was a very fun project and I highly recommend this pattern. I am definitely going to sew the longer version…oh, and make some pants to go with this version :).