Slow But Steady Progress on Vogue 8804

11 Dec

It’s been awhile since I’ve updated you on my progress.  I’ll start at the beginning.

As I said in the last post, it took a long time just to gather the materials.  Once I did that, I realized some of the items were not quite right.  For example, the chain I purchased from somewhere (can’t remember) was too big.  I discover this when I went snoop shopping in the Chanel Boutique at Nordstrom.  I noticed the chain was much smaller and sturdier than the one I had.  Claire recommends a 1/4″ chain, and that may work, but the Chanel chains that I saw were 1/8″.  So, I went in search of a new chain.  This is the one I bought from Susan Khalje Couture:

Moving along, after everything was cut out, thread traced, and marked, it was time to practice buttonholes. The buttonholes were VERY challenging for me, mainly because I’m a perfectionist in my sewing, and I kept trying to get it “perfect”.  After I made the buttonholes, I had to put the whole project away for a few weeks to get some distance from the imperfection of the buttonholes I had created.  As is usual for me, once I went back to the project, I realized that part of the charm of a couture piece MUST be the little imperfections, so I’m okay with the buttonholes at this point:


Once the buttonholes were placed on the front, it was time to quilt the front a prepare the back of the buttonholes, which are made somewhat like a bound buttonhole:


It’s a good thing, too, since the backs of the hand sewn buttonhole are not very attractive.  Here is a picture of the quilting before it is pressed:


Notice the little dart in the lining.  That dart is in the lining only, the public side is actually eased and shaped with heat and steam.  I am learning so much about how couture garments are made, and loving every minute of it!  This type of dart shaping is continued as long, horizontal darts on the front and back pieces to shape the waist.

I’m currently working on quilting the back and shaping the darts there.  More later on the Chanel jacket.

Here is a little side project I worked on during my hiatus from buttonholes.  The inspiration came from Margy on Stitchers Guild.  I don’t know if she made hers or not, but when I saw hers, I had to figure it out.  It’s a unique scarf for a Christmas present:


Here are the instructions, unfortunately without pictures:

1. Cut lengths of knit fabric, about 1″ wide. The length will depend on how long you want the scarf. I would start by wrapping a measuring tape around my neck and measure from there. I think on the one I made, I just cut it 1 yard long because that’s how long my fabric pieces were. But, I do wish it were longer. When you cut the fabric, it will role automatically, either a little bit or a lot, depending on the fabric.

2. You don’t finish the edges. Leave them raw.

3. Let the lengthwise fabric role as it will. Pinch the rolled ends together and sew, overlapping the seams slightly. You now have a long, sort of rolled circle.

4. Make as many of these circles as you want, depending on how thick you want the scarf.

5. Put all of the overlapped seams together, and wrap a piece of rectangular fabric (the band) over them to hide the seams. Hand stitch, making sure you take up some of the circles to hold the little band in place.

Here are some more pictures that might help:




6 Responses to “Slow But Steady Progress on Vogue 8804”

  1. Amy at 6:55 AM #

    Hi… new subscriber after I stumbled my way across the internet and landed here. Great resources! Tell me, have you any information on the blogger “Stash, Wazzup”? I fell into her blog also and was fascinated with her story, but no posts since 2010. You were a commenter on her last post. I am almost afraid to get the answer! I am looking forward to a hot cuppa and a long read of your blog. Thank you for sharing your life and sewing! Amy in Alabama

    • Janis at 7:56 AM #

      Sadly, Stash passed away about two years ago. I knew her in “real life” and she was a wonderful person. She is missed by all who knew her. Thank you for asking.

  2. Joan at 8:51 PM #

    I just finished this jacket. A # of years ago I tailored a Chanel jacket using Claire’s article in Threads. It wears like a sweater. This one is It. knit mohair from Emma One Sock. I took a lot of liberties as some of the techniques did not work for the fabric. Found perfect foldover braid and gimpe at local store. Already had buttons and chain from G-St. in DC area. Had a tough time there as Claire was bot specific as to front seam allowances. Also used a Chanel trick of rounding the neckline and sleeve vent. My neckline is a curved “V” instead of jewel. Makes braid, ribbon or gimpe a lot easier than right angles. As the fabric had a zigzag (which I ran horizontally as there was also a pronounced stripe), I decided to forgo pockets. The jacket turned out well and my cat thought the Chanel chain was a toy as I sewed it above the hem–always the little helper.

  3. velosewer at 3:24 PM #

    Nice to see you again Janis.
    Your buttonholes are a lot nicer looking than the ones I recently did on my trench. Nice scarf too.

  4. Shams at 12:50 PM #

    Those buttonholes look pretty perfect to me! And your scarf is great. Margy didn’t make hers, but she could have!

    • Janis at 1:00 PM #

      Ha, yes she could! Thanks, Shams.

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