Pants Fitting Problems (again)

25 Oct

I’m working on the Chado Ralph Rucci pants today.  I’ve already lengthened the crotch – whoops, too much – shortened the crotch, made a flat seat adjustment, taken out the waist – whoops, too much – and taken in the waist.

The font crotch is a little bulky, so I’ve scooped it out twice (not even sure this is the right adjustment, but it seemed to work a bit).  Right now, I have two layers of basting on the front crotch, so I don’t know if the bulkiness there has to do with that or not.  Here are pictures of front and back:

I think the wrinkles on the back right side (which is really my left side) have to do with the way I pinned the zipper seam together.  I haven’t put the zipper in yet.

See how bulky the front crotch is?  Maybe I’m just use to the beautiful crotch fit of the Loes Hinse Oxfords, but I don’t really like how this looks.

Also, these pants are not as slim as the line drawing would have you think.  Refresher on line drawing:

I can live with the fact that they are not as slim as I wanted, but I can’t live with the front crotch mishmooka.  Remember, I’ve already scooped the front crotch out twice.  I can never remember if that adds volume or reduces volume.  I think I need help. . . anyone?

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7 Responses to “Pants Fitting Problems (again)”

  1. Candy Blackham January 29, 2012 at 12:14 AM #

    This is a very late response to the pants problem, but I hope it will be helpful. I have just completed a day-course on drafting and making trousers and am confident that from now on my trousers, in whatever style I choose to design, will fit perfectly. Eilleen Lewis’ pattern ruler and marvellously helpful guidelines are absolutely the answer! http://www.easypatternmaking.co.za/about-eilleen-lewis

  2. ejvc January 27, 2011 at 2:02 AM #

    Scooping adds length (ie volume) to the area. so, you’ve probably scooped it too much. I agree, who needs that? Copy the front curve from the other trousers, or at least compare to see what you can do.

  3. KathleenB October 27, 2010 at 8:09 PM #

    I, too, feel your pants fitting pain. Not long ago I tried out a supposedly slim fitting Vogue pants pattern without success: wadders after a weekend of fussing. I’m back to my LH Oxfords and Hepburns :S

  4. Janis October 25, 2010 at 7:03 PM #

    Deb, I thought about your comment about too much ease in the thigh and decided to take 1/2 inch out of the inseam. I think this might do the trick. I’ll post pics tomorrow.

    Bev, I am too long from my waist to my crotch, lol. Actually, right now the crotch has about 1 to 1 1/2 inches of ease, so I don’t think the crotch in too long. The 1/2 in that I’m taking out of the inseam I’m continuing all the way to the hem to make them slimmer.

    • Vicki Wingo Grant November 7, 2010 at 12:05 PM #

      Hi Janis, I may be late to the party of helping you fit the pants, but here is my suggestion. I would try removing a little bit from the front inseams ONLY and leave the back seam inseam at the same place. You can pin it out to test. Taper to “0” at knee-ish level,about 10-12″ down from the crotch intersection seams. Pulling in the front inseam should draw in that little bulgy bubble below the fly.

      If you want a narrower pant, you’ve probably already solved the problem with taking in both sides of the inseam the entire length of the pants.

  5. Debra Martin October 25, 2010 at 1:42 PM #

    Hi Janis,
    I feel your frustration with pant fitting.
    To my eye, your pants look good in the crotch area. I don’t see any telltale wrinkling. I am not sure what you mean by “bulky”. Maybe there is a little too much ease in the thigh? Does the crotch feel like it is in the right place when you walk or sit? Maybe the problem isn’t in the crotch… ?? Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful.

  6. sdBev October 25, 2010 at 12:03 PM #

    I think the front crotch looks too long. You might want most of your “scooping” to occur on the back crotch. Like you I thought those pants would be really, really slim. Like legging slim. They aren’t bad at all.!

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