Eureka Pant, cont.

19 Jul

I have been working away on the Eureka Pant in between life events.  I have to admit that I don’t have a lot of patience for pant fitting, so I’m trying to walk away for a few days if it really starts to stress me out. : )  Now, I will bring you up to date.

I’m beginning with the back, according to instructions.  Here is a picture of the back of the first mock-up:

This is a pretty good fit, but after wearing it, looking at the picture, and walking and sitting a bit, I notice that the HBL (horizontal balance line) dips down slightly, mainly the first and second ones.  If I pull it up to make the line straight, it feels tight in the crotch.  The instructions say that, if this happens, either go up a size or go to the next larger back, which is back number 2.  I decide that the overall fit is pretty good, so I use the larger back.  Here is the result:

Oh dear, what happened to my almost perfect fit???  I guess back 2 is not the answer.  So, now I decide to go with plan b, which is to use the original back (back 1) and make a slight adjustment to it.  Here is the suggested adjustment:

After you do this adjustment, you have to realign the HBLs.  I spread that wedge 3/8 inch.  Here is the result:

Okay, here is where I get confused.  Obviously, I have added too large of a wedge to the back crotch, but the HBL is still dipping. ARGH!  So, instead of going back to the wedge adjustment and making it smaller, I decide to abandon the wedge adjustment altogether and move to the next possible adjustment.  On reflection, I’m still not sure why I have made this decision, but I plunge forward anyway.

Now this next adjustment is only supposed to be used if the two back horizontal lines are bowing out.  I’m at the point where I can easily see anything I want to see, so I say to myself, “Heck, yes, I can see the lines bowing!”  If you can’t, I completely understand. The adjustment is to scoop out the back crotch slightly.  I ask my friends at ASG if this sounds good, and they concur.  Scooping it is. Here is the result:

I have more length in the back crotch now, but also, I still have wrinkles under the behind.  I only scooped 1/4″.  My gut is telling me I should go back to the wedge adjustment and just add 1/4″ (before the scoop-out).

I keep going back to the first picture and thinking it looks pretty good.  Maybe I’m just imagining that the back crotch is too short – and that the HBL lines are dipping.

Can you see why this process could drive one to drink rather heavily?

More later.


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23 Responses to “Eureka Pant, cont.”

  1. Linda T August 16, 2013 at 3:35 PM #

    Looking forward to the next installment………..

  2. Lynaea July 25, 2013 at 9:32 PM #

    I’m just amazed. I think I visited here once before and mentioned my grandmother’s fitting/sewing guide. By Elizabeth Bishop I think? Makes my head spin, but I’m convinced it could really help me if I could just puzzle it out (I’m working on my sis’ wedding dress, currently). I’m thinking your muslin mock-up is looking pretty darn tailored! And yes I can see that it could be just a little bit crazymaking. I’m glad you’re documenting the process…You’re a great reference. Thank you.

  3. jillybe July 21, 2013 at 9:22 AM #

    Can I just sit over there on the couch with everyone who needs a glass of wine now? This is on my to-do list, but how can I DO it if I can’t even read about it? lol – truly I bow to your perseverance – looks like you’re really making progress!

    • Sandra July 21, 2013 at 12:35 PM #

      Please move over, Jilly, and make room for one more on that couch. Pants pattern fitting hurts the brain like nothing else in the world. In some ways reading about it is even harder — because of the language of pants pattern fitting and because of what happens when you do *this* and then *that* – ay-yi-yi. I’ll have another beverage, please!

  4. Lynn Mally July 20, 2013 at 6:34 AM #

    I’m almost driven to drink just by reading this! I would just make the first pair, which looks super to me. Now I remember why I am happy with almost perfect… I admire your quest!

  5. Gayle July 20, 2013 at 4:12 AM #

    Martha’s suggestion of adding just slightly to the rear crotch extension is what I did with my Eureka. Only about 1/4 – 3/8″ but it worked beautifully. There is a LOT of difference btn the different backs and it was a bit like the three bears’ porridge – as you’ve experienced Janis! I added to the centre tip of the extension so it is a different effect that from adding the wedge. Adding to the crotch extension (at the tip) gives just a tad more body depth, back to front, whereas the wedge gives more length to go over the buttock. Your initial back is very, very close to perfect.

    Gayle (TazzieM)

    • Janis July 20, 2013 at 8:04 AM #

      Very interesting. Okay, that will be my next move. I love the “three bears’ porridge” simile. : ) Thanks to Gayle and Martha for this one!

    • VtMartha July 20, 2013 at 8:10 AM #

      Thanks for giving this a more visual image, Gayle. I have yet to ‘conquer’ the written word. ;-)

  6. Sandra July 19, 2013 at 7:10 PM #

    To answer the question you asked of Sharon… Yes, when you scoop out at the curve, you need to add that back in, or your result will be smaller in circumference. So I would add that amount to the side back only at approximately the same area, horizontally speaking. Okay, I think/believe that the horizontal and vertical lines are the keys to happiness in your project, right? And that the horizontal line at crotch level is very important. In looking at your most recent version, what I see is that the right side of the horizontal line curves upward. That indicates to me that you have a little more “soft tissue” (Isn’t that a nice term? I learned it from a physical therapist.) in the right high hip area than on the left. I want to come over and pull that right side down, a little at a time, until that key horizontal line is level. Keep taking photos. Mark it at the waist elastic. And then enjoy a glass of wine. You deserve it. :)

    • Janis July 19, 2013 at 7:26 PM #

      Thanks so much for that info, Sandra. That’s what I thought Sharon meant, but I wasn’t sure. As for the “soft tissue”, lol. Yes, I see what you mean. That is very helpful.

  7. sally July 19, 2013 at 6:55 PM #

    I really know nothing about this method, but if you lengthen the front crotch and pulled the back up slightly, would it straighten the lines out?

    • Janis July 19, 2013 at 7:24 PM #

      I fear that would give me more fabric in the front crotch area than I want. The front actually needs a little taken out of it, alas.

  8. VtMartha July 19, 2013 at 6:51 PM #

    I can totally relate to your frustration, Janis. I wonder what would happen to the HBLs if you added just a smidge to the rear crotch extension.

    • Janis July 19, 2013 at 7:22 PM #

      Okay, Martha, I’m trying to wrap my head around this (gets harder to do every day). Wouldn’t that ultimately be the same as adding in the wedge? Just trying to figure out exactly what that would do.

      • VtMartha July 20, 2013 at 8:05 AM #

        Well, not meaning to perseverate but won’t only the HBLs above the wedge be affected? The CB dip is so slight that it may just be the upper ones that need a ‘lift’? I like to move the crotch point slightly to the front by sewing the front inseam with a slightly larger sa and the back one with a smaller sa, if that makes sense. It gives me a little more room in the back and less in the front. However, in a different fabric, I think you will be very happy with your first iteration.

  9. Marcia July 19, 2013 at 5:52 PM #

    I headed for a glass of wine after reading this!
    I’m about to launch on yet another pants fitting exercise, but will wait until I can get help from my ASG friends at our garment group. I have heard people swear by Burda patterns because the crotch is different in European patterns. Anyone have an opinion?

    • Janis July 19, 2013 at 6:21 PM #

      I remember, long, long ago, having a good fit with Burda. Marcia, I can’t believe you don’t have a good TNT pant pattern! I’ve seen many good fitting pants on you.

  10. Dawn Redmond July 19, 2013 at 5:48 PM #

    I think the first one is the best. In fact I think it looks really good

  11. Linda T July 19, 2013 at 3:48 PM #

    Pass that 3rd margarita! I understand the frustration in your pants fitting journey. I’ve got a couple of patterns that I “can live with.” I’m working on jeans and haven’t had time to get back to them in about the last month. Just keep going. Thanks for sharing with us!

  12. Robyn July 19, 2013 at 3:36 PM #

    The first picture DOES look awfully good. In fact, it looks like you just need a little high hip adjustment on one side.

    Robyn (bluemooney)

  13. Sharon July 19, 2013 at 2:06 PM #

    Oh I feel your frustration as I also am trying to fit pants and have had to walk away after too many muslins. When you scooped the crotch did you add to the side seams on the back at that point to give back the width you took out?

    • Janis July 19, 2013 at 2:09 PM #

      No, am I suppose to do that? LOL, thanks for the suggestion, Sharon. I’ll give that a try. I only scooped out at the curve, probably about 1/4 ” deep and 3-4 inches long. Would I only add to the side-back seams there?

  14. Martha July 19, 2013 at 1:56 PM #

    Hang in there! I agree that the first one may be very, very close.

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