I’m going to take another stab at pant fitting. Checking out the pants in my closet recently, I noticed that most of them are The Sewing Workshop Hudson pants. Here are a few of them:
Enough of the Hudsons, already! I need to move on. Of course the reason why I’ve made so many of these is because they FIT. I didn’t have to do much to make them fit, either – just a flat seat adjustment (standard for me) and lengthened crotch. I have changed them up a lot, like making them longer, shorter, skinnier, etc.
The truth is, loose fitting pants are pretty easy to fit (at least on my body). I struggle more with fitted pants. I love all of the new StyleArc pants patterns, but they don’t fit me the way I want them to. Since everyone else is having such success with them, I have decided that I simply must not understand the intricacies of pants fitting. What to do?
I saw some folks on Stitcher’s Guild talking about the new Eureka pants pattern by Fit For Art. This pattern was created by fitting guru Sarah Veblen as a sort of pant-fitting tutorial. I have decided to take it on as a project, and to document the journey here.
I must mention that not only do I have the Eureka pattern, but also Sarah’s book, The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting. Armed and dangerous, I am ready to sally forth!
The Eureka pant sizing is done two different ways. First, you measure yourself at the abdomen and hip to determine if you are a XXSmall-L size (there is also a plus-size option). I chose the Xsmall, based on those measurements.
Most of us sewers know that the crotch shape is EVERYTHING when it comes to pants fitting. The Eureka Pants come with three different back crotch depths: one, for flat-bottomed girls; two, for the somewhat more endowed; and three, for the bootilicious among us. I chose the number one back crotch size, so the fronts of my pants are Xsmall and the backs are Xsmall/Back 1. Here, I have traced off the pattern:
As you can see, there are three horizontal lines drawn on the pattern pieces, called the Horizontal Balance Lines (HBL). There is also a vertical grain line that runs the entire length of the pants. Additionally, there are some dart placement lines that are drawn on the pattern because you don’t put the darts in until you have the first muslin on your body, and these lines help you determine where to place them.
After I finished tracing the two pattern pieces, I basted them together (you can pin if your pattern is paper) and tried them on to make sure the crotch was long enough. It was, so I cut out my first muslin, transferring all lines and marks.
Now I’m ready to sew my first muslin together. I already know that my butt is flatter than the flattest back size based on trying on the pattern, so that’s one adjustment I’m going to have to make right off the bat. But let’s not get ahead of ourselves!
I will be taking a short trip to Montana over the 4th of July weekend, but will begin the muslin in earnest when I return. I hope everyone has a fun and safe 4th of July.