Eureka Pant, cont.

19 Jul

I have been working away on the Eureka Pant in between life events.  I have to admit that I don’t have a lot of patience for pant fitting, so I’m trying to walk away for a few days if it really starts to stress me out. : )  Now, I will bring you up to date.

I’m beginning with the back, according to instructions.  Here is a picture of the back of the first mock-up:

This is a pretty good fit, but after wearing it, looking at the picture, and walking and sitting a bit, I notice that the HBL (horizontal balance line) dips down slightly, mainly the first and second ones.  If I pull it up to make the line straight, it feels tight in the crotch.  The instructions say that, if this happens, either go up a size or go to the next larger back, which is back number 2.  I decide that the overall fit is pretty good, so I use the larger back.  Here is the result:

Oh dear, what happened to my almost perfect fit???  I guess back 2 is not the answer.  So, now I decide to go with plan b, which is to use the original back (back 1) and make a slight adjustment to it.  Here is the suggested adjustment:

After you do this adjustment, you have to realign the HBLs.  I spread that wedge 3/8 inch.  Here is the result:

Okay, here is where I get confused.  Obviously, I have added too large of a wedge to the back crotch, but the HBL is still dipping. ARGH!  So, instead of going back to the wedge adjustment and making it smaller, I decide to abandon the wedge adjustment altogether and move to the next possible adjustment.  On reflection, I’m still not sure why I have made this decision, but I plunge forward anyway.

Now this next adjustment is only supposed to be used if the two back horizontal lines are bowing out.  I’m at the point where I can easily see anything I want to see, so I say to myself, “Heck, yes, I can see the lines bowing!”  If you can’t, I completely understand. The adjustment is to scoop out the back crotch slightly.  I ask my friends at ASG if this sounds good, and they concur.  Scooping it is. Here is the result:

I have more length in the back crotch now, but also, I still have wrinkles under the behind.  I only scooped 1/4″.  My gut is telling me I should go back to the wedge adjustment and just add 1/4″ (before the scoop-out).

I keep going back to the first picture and thinking it looks pretty good.  Maybe I’m just imagining that the back crotch is too short – and that the HBL lines are dipping.

Can you see why this process could drive one to drink rather heavily?

More later.

Janis

Eureka Pant First Muslin

9 Jul

Not bad, huh?  This is the first muslin before any adjustments.  The darts are not sewn in yet.  Perhaps I should do that now, but I wanted to get some feedback from you first.

This is what I see, beginning with the first pic:

1.  Looks like my right hip is higher than my left.  It’s causing the horizontal balance line (HBL) to go up slightly on that side (I’ve decided this is a camera angle issue) The verticle lines look fairly straight (maybe a little bowed on the right side, which may have something to do with the hip issue).  There are some diagonal pull lines on the bottom right leg, but I think that’s just because I cuffed the bottom and its pulling a little.  Also, there is some extra fabric at the front crotch.

2.  The back is pretty amazing, I think.  There are some diagonal drag lines on the right leg.  I tend to hyper-extend my knees, so I’m wondering if that has something to do with it.  The HBL’s look okay, which makes me wonder about the high hip thing.  Maybe I’m just seeing things on the first pic.

3.  The left side view is interesting.  It looks like the HBL’s are tilting downward from the back to the front – the top HBL being the most noticeable.  The side seam looks straight enough.

4.  The right side view is the same as the left – the top HBL is tilting downward from the back to the front.  The side seam looks good here, too.  The diagonal pull lines continue on the right side of the leg.

The nice thing about the pattern instructions is that once I determine what the issues are, the instructions will tell me what to do about it.  So, I don’t need any advice YET on what to do.  I just need observations on what is wrong.  Thanks so much for your help.  I look forward to your comments.

Eureka Pant Project

2 Jul

I’m going to take another stab at pant fitting.  Checking out the pants in my closet recently, I noticed that most of them are The Sewing Workshop Hudson pants.  Here are a few of them:

Ponte-KnitIMG_0257_2

TSW Hudson Pants

Enough of the Hudsons, already!  I need to move on.  Of course the reason why I’ve made so many of these is because they FIT.  I didn’t have to do much to make them fit, either – just a flat seat adjustment (standard for me) and lengthened crotch.  I have changed them up a lot, like making them longer, shorter, skinnier, etc.

The truth is, loose fitting pants are pretty easy to fit (at least on my body).  I struggle more with fitted pants.  I love all of the new StyleArc pants patterns, but they don’t fit me the way I want them to.  Since everyone else is having such success with them, I have decided that I simply must not understand the intricacies of pants fitting.  What to do?

I saw some folks on Stitcher’s Guild talking about the new Eureka pants pattern by Fit For Art.  This pattern was created by fitting guru Sarah Veblen as a sort of pant-fitting tutorial.  I have decided to take it on as a project, and to document the journey here.

I must mention that not only do I have the Eureka pattern, but also Sarah’s book, The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting.  Armed and dangerous, I am ready to sally forth!

The Eureka pant sizing is done two different ways.  First, you measure yourself at the abdomen and hip to determine if you are a XXSmall-L size (there is also a plus-size option).  I chose the Xsmall, based on those measurements.

Most of us sewers know that the crotch shape is EVERYTHING when it comes to pants fitting.  The Eureka Pants come with three different back crotch depths: one, for flat-bottomed girls; two, for the somewhat more endowed; and three, for the bootilicious among us.  I chose the number one back crotch size, so the fronts of my pants are Xsmall and the backs are Xsmall/Back 1.  Here, I have traced off the pattern:

 

As you can see, there are three horizontal lines drawn on the pattern pieces, called the Horizontal Balance Lines (HBL).  There is also a vertical grain line that runs the entire length of the pants. Additionally, there are some dart placement lines that are drawn on the pattern because you don’t put the darts in until you have the first muslin on your body, and these lines help you determine where to place them.

After I finished tracing the two pattern pieces, I basted them together (you can pin if your pattern is paper) and tried them on to make sure the crotch was long enough.  It was, so I cut out my first muslin, transferring all lines and marks.

Now I’m ready to sew my first muslin together.  I already know that my butt is flatter than the flattest back size based on trying on the pattern, so that’s one adjustment I’m going to have to make right off the bat.  But let’s not get ahead of ourselves!

I will be taking a short trip to Montana over the 4th of July weekend, but will begin the muslin in earnest when I return.  I hope everyone has a fun and safe 4th of July.

Cutting Line Designs “A New Dimension” Part 2

29 Jun

It’s beginning to get hot in the sewing room, which means I need to turn on the air conditioning.  I’m pretty stingy with the air, since we live in a fairly moderate climate, but I can’t let that keep me from my sewing, so the air must go on.

I just finished the second version of A New Dimension.  Just to spark your memory, here is the envelope cover:

A New Demension

Here is my version:

I made the longer version this time – the one with the cute collar.  This collar is made by fusing the interfacing in three sections with space between so that you can fold and iron the collar as shown on the envelope cover.  I did it that way, but then I decided I like the collar unfolded A LOT, so I left it that way.  In the future, if I want to change the collar, I can easily do that.

I used the extra small sizing, and there is still plenty of ease in the final jacket.  I made no other alterations except to shorten the length.

I cut a bunch of inches off the length (can’t remember right now, but I’m going to say something like seven).  Because I cut off so much, I made sure I did that at the lengthen/shorten line.  I was still worried about losing the proportions, but I don’t think I did.   I generally don’t look good in a long jacket style, and my intention was to make this a “big shirt” type of jacket.  I think it turned out to have a “swing jacket” vibe.

I used a stretch cotton bottom weight that I got from Marcy Tilton.  It will be a nice layering piece for summer evenings, spring, and fall.  I didn’t put in the pockets, since I’m not much of a pocket girl.

I liked both versions of this pattern, and will probably make it again (especially the last version).  A plus is that THE DONALD (DH) likes it. : )

I’m Not Invisible Anymore!

23 Jun

This is a self-serving and gratuitous post to get my picture on the wonderful Not Dead Yet Style blog.  Thanks so much to Patti for making we women of a certain age visible again!

Now run along and check out my picture. : )

Frixion Pen Disaster

21 Jun

Image

I hesitate to even mention this disaster, because I know what you all will say, “What the heck was she thinking?”  If you don’t know me in real life, let’s just say I like to live life dangerously.  If someone says to me, “you really shouldn’t try that at home”, I probably will.  I’m a bit of a risk-taker.  Enter the Frixion Pen.

I love these pens!  I use them to mark fabric, not ALL fabric, but most fabric.  And they work beautifully!  I can use a really dark colored pen to mark the lightest fabric!  Finally, I don’t have to strain my eyes to find the correct markings on my fabric pieces as I’m sewing.  This is truly marking heaven…or is it?

I’m making a white, yes white, jacket/blouse combo.  The fabric is a lovely cotton-lycra jacquard from Marcy Tilton.  So what color Frixion pen did I decide to use?  Purple, of course.  You know where this is going.

The idea of the Frixion pen is that when you iron the marks, they disappear.  It usually works that way, too.  But I think I’ve discovered a kink.  Whenever I iron away marks accidentally, and then go back over the area to replace the marks, that’s when I have a problem.  Here are some pictures to explain the issue:

Here are the original marks on the fabric:

Image

This is after ironing marks the first time:

2013-06-21 07.43.25

See, marks are gone.  Now I replace the marks because I still need them, and this is what happens after I iron the replaced marks:

2013-06-21 07.42.18

Holy, moly!  Fortunately, because the fabric is white cotton, I was able to take a bleach-soaked q-tip and bleach out the marks.  Some are coming out better than others:

2013-06-21 07.43.12

I’m still working on these.

Will I continue to use the Frixion pens?  Yes indeed.  I’ll just be more careful about double marking.

What are your marking tool disasters?  Misery loves company!

Cutting Line Designs “A New Dimension”

16 Jun

It has been awhile since I have sewn a Cutting Line Design pattern.   Awhile back, these patterns had so much ease, I couldn’t even sew the smallest size without doing some major alterations. That, or just look overpowered in my garment.  But now, they seem to be slimming down a bit, or did Louis just add an extra small size to the patterns?  I don’t know.

I love the instructions on these patterns.  They are very detailed and leave nothing to guess about.  Terrific illustrations go along with the well-written instructions.  And Louise Cutting, the designer, always includes sewing tips that enhance the quality of the final product.

There are two versions in “A New Dimension”.  One is a long jacket/blouse with an interesting collar treatment.  The other is a short jacket with tab closure:

A New Demension

One of the best suggestions in the instructions is how to finish the underarm part of the side seam.  These sleeves are cut-on, and I don’t usually like the way cut-on sleeves hang under the arm.  The instructions say to diagonally clip each side of the seam separately.  Then, as you serge, open up the clips slightly, so that you are actually sergeing air between the clips.  This makes the sleeves hang nicely.  Here is my version, done up in a linen jacquard:

Open:

Closed:

It’s worth it to note that the only alteration I made to this pattern was to shorten the sleeve.  I usually do a narrow shoulder adjustment, if nothing else.  But, this jacket has something Louise calls “military princess seams”, the seams running from front to back.  This gives the illusion of a shoulder line, so I think it works for my narrow shoulders.

This was a very fun project and I highly recommend this pattern.  I am definitely going to sew the longer version…oh, and make some pants to go with this version :).

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